For those of you in the know, Vietnam is actually the 2nd largest producer of coffee in the world, after Brazil. They mainly produce Robusta beans, which has a stronger, more robust (duh) flavour than Arabica, grows at lower altitude and contains about 50% more caffeine. Its resistance to disease, higher yield per tree and low-altitude growing environment make it much easier to produce. Some people think that Robusta is the ‘lower-grade’ coffee; but it really is just a different species with less variation in its flavour characteristics compared to Arabica.
One of the things I noticed travelling around the city was its prevalence on what would be called ‘indie’ cafes in Singapore. Indie is cool in Singapore because we are so incredibly regulated; but in Vietnam, everybody’s indie.
But in this post, I will not focus so much on the coffee (just a little) as about some of my thoughts about how these cafes reflect in some small part Vietnam’s history and society.
L’usine Cafeteria
And so, in the middle of nowhere (though it does seem like an area with more art shops than usual), Paul brought me to L’usine Cafe, a name that sounds distinctly French. You would never guess what the inside of this cafe looks like just by the path leading up to it.
Entering a totally different world.
Not that I want Singapore to be centre of the world, but honestly this matches up to any cafe here. In fact, there is a merchandise/ shopping section and a cafe; much like Singapore’s new cafe Maison Ikkoku at Kandahar Street.
The retail section sells everything from Moleskine notebooks to shirts that cost about SG$90 (probably equivalent of the $400 t-shirts at Maison).
This place sells espresso based coffees, cupcakes and Western sandwiches (not Banh Mi), and around me I saw 4 people using Macbooks. Kinda tells you about the crowd that frequents the place, no?
Renovation & Reconnection
What I really want to say about this place is how it really is a reflection of today’s Vietnamese society. You see, in Vietnamese law (as I was told), you can’t own an F&B operation as a foreigner unless you also own a hotel establishment. That means, indie setups like these are definitely owned by locals. Yet, the average local Vietnamese would probably not have the necessary exposure to open a place as Western in concept as this one; where the tables are largely communal for serendipitous meetings, where retail and coffee co-exist, where cupcakes are sold more for their aesthetics than taste.
Places like these are usually opened by young ‘Viet Kieu’ (literally translated as 越侨, or ‘overseas Vietnamese’). These are sometimes first-generation, but mostly 2nd-generation young people whose families escaped during Vietnam’s turbulent years struggling for independence from the French colonial administration and the subsequent civil war between the North and the South. The Northern Communists eventually won in 1975. Once they beat the Southern guys, they took over Saigon and promptly re-named it Ho Chi Minh City in honour (and to carve in stone the political positions) of ‘Uncle Ho’, the revolutionary leader.
These Viet Kieu’s escaped to any place which would take them in: France, Australia, Hong Kong (remember the ‘boat people’) and the US of A. Many of them would eventually receive a Western education, speak in flawless English, but choose to come home as much for the economic opportunities as for their reconnection to their roots. The ‘Doi Moi’ reforms, an economic ‘renovation’ policy adopted by the Communist party rulers in 1986 to open up the economy to market forces opened up Vietnam’s economy to its current boom. Vietnam remains one of the world’s fastest growing economies but also with a great income gap.
And so, a cafe like this is really a reflection of what has gone on in Vietnamese society for so many years. It really isn’t just a cafe. For some insight into the experience of a Viet Kieu, I found this piece of reflection on the Net that’s quite beautifully and poignantly written. And this American piece about Viet Kieu’s too. By the way, by definition, Australian celebrity chef Luke Nguyen is also a Viet Kieu; and he has used this to good effect in marketing himself; writing books such as ‘Baguettes and Banh Mi: Finding France in Vietnam’.
Trung Nguyen Coffee
Think Ya Kun and you get the idea.
This particular branch is located right outside Diamond Plaza in HCMC; which is kinda like the ION of Orchard Road. Well, I don’t think Ya Kun is that big in Singapore as of yet; but you get the idea.
As compared to L’usine, Trung Nguyen is at the opposite end of the spectrum. Mass-produced, chain stores, little personal connection with customers. They sell coffee made from local beans, largely of the Robusta variety, roasted VERY dark with tonnes of butter. That’s what the locals drink.
But, for probably about a fifth of the price, you can get the exact same thing on the streets and at the roadside. Potent, dark stuff. Iced. 
Most of us wouldn’t be unfamiliar with this simple little coffee gadget the Vietnamese have invented. It’s essentially a drip device, but the grind-size and the structure of the device ensures that it takes ages for the coffee to drip through. You get a coffee that is extremely viscous and buttery; almost the consistency of an espresso to be honest with none of the brightness. 
I mean, think about it. If I were a Vietnamese, I’d have no stomach problems taking in some roadside coffee. Why would any Vietnamese pay 5 times the price for the exact same thing? Sure, I could order a particular blend of ‘Arabica, Robusta and Excelsia beans’, but I doubt any other blend would have tasted very different.
My guess is that it’s the peripherals that make the difference. The impression that Trung Nguyen selects and uses only the best Vietnamese beans. The fact that even the drip device has their logo engraved on it. The fact that you’ll see a huge obsolete roaster placed right at their door like an artifact.
The fact that this store is huge, beside Diamond Plaza and has air-con and waitstaff. And powerpoints, and wifi. And my cup of iced jasmine tea (which the locals drink in place of water) gets refilled every 25 seconds.
And now, I’d pay easily 5 times as any other roadside stall. Wouldn’t you?
The Perfect Blend
I guess, what Trung Nguyen did was to convince its customers that Vietnamese coffee rocks. Though I think otherwise; it’s the same as how some think that Starbucks is the best coffee too. By appealing to roots, to the emotional ties of something old-school, something the locals grew up drinking but putting a twist to it; it suddenly became cool; and somewhat even a tourist commodity! Even Ben Thanh market sells 3-in-1 Trung Nguyen coffee. I guess their formula is quite simple:
What you love (Viet coffee) + What you want (perks) = What you will pay (good money)
What’s fascinating is that Vietnam’s local population has grown rich enough for the middle-upper class upwards to be able to afford Trung Nguyen coffee at SGD$2.50 – 4 a cup. It may be the occasional luxury (as MacDonald’s once was for us), but it still attracts enough customers for Trung Nguyen to expand overseas. This would never have been possible 20 yrs ago.
Not meant to be a definitive guide to cafes in HCMC, but this will have to do for now.
Until I go back again and trek the city on foot.
Grilled Pork noodles, Pho and Banh Mi, I’ll see you again soon!
Live Wise. 
Siying
December 15, 2012
Hi, I have also been to cafe L’usine before, it’s decor + difficult to locate address makes it a really interesting place at Hcmc. I hope to visit this place again if I ever visit Hcmc. 🙂